Cleaning out the fish tank is not a fun job, but you’ll have to do it less with a BiOrb Aquarium as these are designed so you only have to change the filter in the tank once every six weeks. It’s also really easy to change, making it absolutely stress free. This benefit is achieved through a five stage process of water optimization. The stages are biological, mechanical and chemical filtration, coupled with water stabilizers and 100% water oxygenation, meaning your water will be clear and pure.

Another great benefit of BiOrb Aquariums is that they’re low maintenance. As well as not changing the filter so often, the optimization of the water means that harmful scum and bacteria is less likely to build up on the sides of the tank, so there’ll be less cleaning for you to do. The ceramic plate at the bottom of the aquarium also provides a great home for beneficial filter bacteria to thrive and, as this is never removed, you won’t lose the beneficial bacteria when you clean the tank.

Added to the low maintenance, there are also huge benefits in the bowl shape of BiOrb Aquariums. There is a bubble tube that uses an air-powered filtration system to keep oxygen levels at optimum, creating a great environment for your fish. There’s also an increased water capacity, which means they have more room to move around. Plus, independent studies show that this shape of aquarium has higher oxygenation levels than rectangular ones. Added to this, they also look a lot more attractive.

If you buy a BiOrb aquarium, you can also benefit from the great range of accessories available. These include a thermometer for measuring water temperature, a timer that reminds you to feed you fish and an aquarium stand so you can showcase your fish. There are also great benefits to be had in the cartridge based filtration system that is designed to safely eliminate any organic waste produced by uneaten food and the fish. This effectively keeps the water clear and the fish healthy.

Now Try – Biorb

Aquariums significantly improved during the 1960′s because of the invention of silicone glue. Metal support frames grew to become obsolete and a lot more individuals started to keep salt water species of fish and invertebrates. Far more recently glass tanks have turn out to be less frequently used due to the flexibility of acrylic. Literally flexibility! Acrylic aquariums are far more for forgiving than there glass alternatives. If a heavy object hits a glass tank, it will practically definitely break. The flexibility of an acrylic tank will avoid this disaster from happening. In addition, acrylic offers a lot more versatility in design as compared to glass. Acrylic fish tanks have been made into almost everything from coffee tables to gum ball poppers.

That being said, there is usually a short disadvantage to having an acrylic fish tank. They do scratch much more effortlessly than glass. When cleaning your aquarium, be careful don’t use paper towels, and coarse or abrasive chemicals, as they can damage the acrylic surface of the aquarium. Often use a cleaner specifically labeled safe for acrylic. Use plastic or rubber scrubbers, instead of metal to clean the sides of an acrylic tank. Be cautious not to accidentally pick up a piece of substrate or gravel while cleaning the inside of the tank. Even so, in the event you do take place to scratch an acrylic aquarium, all isn’t lost. The tank can be repaired, unlike glass. You can find acrylic repair kits available at specialty pet stores, your local hardware store and needless to say online.

When buying an acrylic aquarium kit, there will likely be a lot of diverse choices to choose from, at several different price points. Aquarium kits might be bought at places for instance specialty aquatic pet stores, from big retail chains, or again on the internet. A fish lover can opt for from tiny cylinder fashioned tanks that will double as a coffee table lamp to wall massive wall sized aquariums. While, you will discover some basic things that are going to be provided in most kits, just like, a filter, some substrate or coral and sometimes lighting, the kits themselves can fluctuate greatly. It genuinely doesn’t matter where you buy your starter kit, but keep in mind that it is extremely significant to buy your fish from a reputable dealer. Don’t obtain fish which can be hovering near the surface, or which can be located in a tank with other dead fish. Fish diseases are particularly communicable. Be weary of a fish dealer that refuses to catch a particular fish out from the tank for you. Following all this is going to be your fish and you’ve a correct to select.

You absolutely need a tank of 10 gallons or more, assuming you go for the ten, you also need to have a filter that provides 80 to 100 gallons per minute of water flow. This is an essential step for good filtration, and will ensure your fish are healthy, and will have a long life. Setting up and maintaining the water for your female betta’s is actually a very simple process. The first thing that you need to do (true with ALL fish) is to make sure that the tank is fully cycled. This is the process of aging your filter bacteria enough to be able to remove the ammonia from the water, which is toxic to fish. This is so very important as many people skip it before adding fish. If you do not know what the Nitrogen Cycle is STOP reading this now and fully research it before proceeding.

Please do not add any fish before this is done , as it will make your fish ill and significantly shorten her life. Now that we got this out of the way, we need to discuss properly setting up your tank with plants and decorations. Like most fish, the female betta loves a nice dark place to hide in their water. So make sure to provide some sort of shelter for them, whether it be a cave, log, or even an abundance of plants. This is vital to reducing stress among your fish, as it gives them a place to hide, and provides comfort.When selecting plants, it is advised to avoid plastic plants for any betta, as their fins are very sensitive and fragile.

They can get caught up on these plants or even decorations with sharp edges and rip their fins! So we like to use silk plants, and highly recommend live plants if you have the means to take care of them. The only other vital supply for the tank that you will need is a good, reliable heater. Like most fish, betta’s like warmer, tropical weather. I advise keeping the temperature between 75 and 80 degrees.

This is just the starter guide to setting up and maintaining a Sorority tank. These fish are gorgeous, and incredibly endearing. They will bring joy to your life, and if you would like to know more about setting up this species tank, please visit this link about a female betta tank setup.

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But this page is not going to be that aggressive. Here you are going to read about betta fish breeding and how you can do it yourself. No need to go to the pet store again after you have learned the steps to breed betta fish successfully. You will know how to breed them all by yourself.

To start, don’t just place a male and a female in the same aquarium and then expect them to breed. Unfortunately, this is how a lot of people do and they think that they will mate automatically. *Warning* If you do this then it’s more than likely that the male will just kill the female. Instead you have to introduce them together at just the right moment to become successful.

You can place female betta fishes together but don’t mix males and females, or males and males. You will have your own little boxing arena if you do.

When breeding betta fish you should have a separate aquarium that’s about 10 gallons. So you actually need 3 aquariums in order to breed a betta fish. 1 for the male which is about 5 gallons, the breeding tank which is 10 gallons, and then the aquarium where you keep the female.

The bettas have the labyrinth organ as I said in the introduction. Therefore you need to make sure that it can reach the surface. The water level should be at 6 inches because of this.

The water needs to be filtered as well as oxygenated. Be sure that you don’t use a pump that is too strong as the male will place small bubble nests under the vegetation. If it’s too strong then there is a risk that nests will get destroyed by the pump’s current.

In the breeding aquarium you need to place plants so that the female have plenty of places where she can hide if the male gets to violent. Floating plants is also good as it’s both hiding places as well as spots for the bubble nests. The water should be about 80 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit and as I said about 6 inches high.

It’s a good thing to use a divider in the breeding aquarium so that you keep both the male and the female apart from each other initially.

Now, before you introduce the two fishes together, you should feed them so that they are strong and have plenty of energy. The betta fish can eat live as well as frozen foods. There are special betta flakes which you can buy at the pet store and they are very good. Allow 2 weeks where you just supply them with food so that they have enough energy. Now I don’t mean that you should feed them 24h a day. Feed them like you would with any other fish.

How do you know when the two fishes are ready to mate?

If you use a divider then place the male on one side and let him get familiar with the surroundings before you add the female to the other side. You can also use a floating glass jar if you don’t have a divider.

Once you add the female you should pay close attention to the male and see what he’s doing. If he’s beginning to build bubble nests and flare his fins then he’s getting ready.

The female will develop vertical bars on the body when she’s ready. However, for some species this will not happen. You should also look at the belly of the female and her reaction towards the male. If it looks like she’s swimming towards the male, then it’s a good sign.

When you have the signs you can remove the divider, or release the female from the glass jar. The male will then begin to chase the female and bite her. Don’t panic as this is how it should happen. Wait 1 – 2 days to see what’s happening. If it looks too violent then you should remove the female and try at a later date. Also if nothing happens after 2 days then remove the female and try at a later date.

When the two fish are ready the female will swim towards one of the nests that the male have set up. The male will then wrap himself around the female and the breeding has begun. The female will lay her eggs into the nests as the male will fertilize them with his sperm.

Once the female swims away from the nest it’s time to remove her.

Don’t worry about the eggs as the male will take care of those.

After the eggs hatch you should begin to see small mini betta fish swimming around. It’s now time to remove the male from the aquarium and place him back in his private one.

The mini bettas should be fed every 6 hours with food that is easy for them to eat. Many recommend small worms but reguar flakes in smaller quantities will also do good. Keep feeding them this way for about 1 month then you can feed them bigger food.

When the mini bettas turn 2 months you can begin to separate males and females. The males will become very aggressive and you have to remove them. place them in their own jar or aquarium. However, the females can still stay together.

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Discovering the right type and consistency of food
The type of diet and food consistency can be determined by considering three divisions of two groups.
The first section is the type of food. Herbivores eat plant-based food only, carnivores are meat-eating fish and omnivores eat both plant and animal matter. Most fish fall into this third group.
There are also different depths at which fish feed in tank aquariums so it is important to display food in a texture suitable for fish which collect food from the top, fish that feed on food which has fallen into the water, and fish that gather food from the bottom of fish tanks.

What’s on the menu?
All fish require a balanced diet consisting of fats, carbohydrates, proteins, vitamins and minerals. Here are a variety of foods you may consider, depending on the nutritional requirements of the fish in your freshwater fish tanks.

Herbivore fish need food with high fibre content, for instance algae and vegetables. These fish will enjoy lettuce, zucchini, spinach, nettles, maize, carrots and peas. You need to ensure that these vegetables are boiled so they are soft, and broken down into suitably sized morsels. These foods provide various vitamins, minerals and trace elements. I also recommend using Spirulina for herbivores as it provides them with easily edible vegetable protein.

For carnivores and omnivores, a diet rich in protein will be vital. This can be supplied through live food (making sure it is nourishing), home-produced or commercial foods. Thin slices of raw red meat or cooked white meat can be used, live small fish (e.g. feeder goldfish), live or freeze-dried worms, daphnia, brine shrimp, Tubifex, and krill. Meat, brine shrimp and worms are best fed as a delicacy rather than as an everyday food. Tubifex encourages growth and may be used as a conditioning food to get your fish healthy before breeding. For myself, I suggest krill as a dietary basis for carnivorous and omnivorous fish. They are rich in protein and contain amino acids and Omega 3 fatty acids for overall health, carotenoids to bring out bright colors in fish, vitamins and minerals which improve the immune system, dietary roughage to improve digestion, and vitalizing carbohydrates. Krill also contain little fat and salt. They are ideal for helping a sick fish recuperate or to bring a healthy fish up to maximum condition for breeding or showing. For predatory carnivores who like to catch moving things, you can dangle non-live food from a fork and let it down into the aquarium in front of the fish, wiggling it around so that it seems it is alive!

Dry foods
There are several types of dry foods for instance granules, grains, flakes, pills, pellets and wafers. These can all be bought in a range of compositions considering the type of fish you wish to feed and the different parts of the water column they occupy. Most of these prepared foods are of a high-quality, calculated to give a balanced diet and are full of extra vitamins and minerals, so it is vital to include them in the diet. Different formulas can also be used from time to time such as preparation for breeding or for developing color. It is also very practical as it is easy to store and doesn’t require any preparation. The risk of disease or parasites being brought into aquariums with food is likewise completely eliminated.

Bon Appetit!
Diversity is the real key to high-quality fish nutrition. Therefore, it is vital to provide your fish with a choice of different suitable foods to make certain they receive a balanced diet for their best possible health and their interest in and enjoyment of food.

Copyright © 2009 Jill Kaestner @ Kaestner Marketing LLC

Setting up your aquarium
Before buying an aquarium you must decide on the space you have on hand and research the adult size of the fish you would like to keep, both of which will suggest the size and shape of aquarium that would be appropriate. Considering all this has been carefully designed and your model aquarium is there with all the necessary equipment ready to be set up, you can follow these steps to hassle-free successful aquarium setup.

1. Position aquarium (on a stand, if needed) in an area away from direct sunlight, heat and draughts, as these alter the light and temperature of the tank. Also ensure that the floor is able to carry the overall weight of the aquarium when filled with water (approximately 10 pounds per gallon of water).

2. Wash out the tank with water as hot as you can bear. Do not use detergents or soaps as residue will be harmful for tropical freshwater fish.

3. Place the under-gravel filter in the bottom of the tank (if your aquarium comes with one), following the instructions supplied.

4. Rinse the gravel thoroughly in hot water using a sieve to get rid of any dust or debris. Add the gravel to the tank, covering the under-gravel filter. Create a gentle slope of gravel, deepest at the back.

5. Clean all artificial plants and decorations in hot water and organize in the fish tank.

6. Fasten the aquarium heater to the inside of the tank with its suction cups but do not plug it in for at least 30 minutes until the thermostat has adjusted to the water temperature, otherwise the heater may break. Needless to say, you need to have researched the species you anticipate to keep to learn about specific temperature needs.

7. Set up the aquarium filter following the instructions given, placing the filter media inside.

8. Position a dish on the bottom of the aquarium to break the power of the water and fill the aquarium with water that is at room temperature. Add de-chlorinator to the water if you are using unfiltered tap water. Check for any rare leaks as you fill the tank. (They are easily fixed with aquarium silicone).

9. Unless the aquarium lighting is previously fitted underwater, put the light on top.

10. Plug in all the equipment and check that everything is working perfectly. Make sure there is a dip in the cord before it reaches the electrical outlet, known as a ‘drip loop’. This ensures the water drips off onto the floor and does not pass directly into the electrical socket.

Your aquarium is now functional in its self but is still not ready for sustaining tropical freshwater fish. Beneficial bacteria needs to be established first, and the aquarium atmosphere then needs to alter as new fish are gradually added.

How to proceed after initial aquarium setup
Let the tank settle and the water stabilize for some days. During this time you must keep monitoring the water parameters using aquarium test kits to make certain they are suitable for the fish you plan to have (temperature, pH, hardness, ammonia).

Nitrogen cycle
You will then need to begin the nitrogen cycle so your aquarium will be ready to sustain healthy freshwater fish (see related article ‘Setting-Up Tropical Freshwater Fish Tank Aquariums: The Nitrogen Cycle’ at ezinearticles.com).

Aquarium maintenance
When the nitrogen cycle is concluded and you start adding fish to your aquarium, you need to initiate a maintenance program. On a daily basis ensure that fish are healthy, particularly during feeding times, and make certain that the filters and heaters are operating correctly. Clean your tank every one to two weeks and perform 25% water changes once a month.

Copyright © 2009 Jill Kaestner @ Kaestner Marketing LLC